The question of price…(a philosophy)

This is where I ask you to tell me what you want to spend on a bottle of wine. I get it—it can be uncomfortable, and I think some of that discomfort comes back to the ego surrounding wine. No one wants to be judged for drinking “cheap” wine—or for being unwilling to spend more on a bottle.

I’ve noticed that most people are comfortable answering the budget question in a retail setting, but not in a restaurant. That makes sense—the shop is more casual and usually a one-on-one experience. The restaurant is more formal and involves others, so there’s greater potential for scrutiny. But I promise you—there isn’t any. Everyone at the table is just as uncomfortable.

During my Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) studies—specifically during the tasting portion—one element of evaluation was “quality.” The scale ranged from faulty, poor, acceptable, good, very good, to outstanding. These were blind tastings, so price wasn’t disclosed. In a lineup of three wines, all were evaluated as “good”—yet the price points ranged from $15 to $75 a bottle (retail). Price does not dictate quality. Yes, there tends to be a higher ratio of good-quality wines at higher price points, but I can find “good” wine at any price point. That price point depends on what the bottle means to you—and what you’re comfortable with. If you spend more than you’re comfortable with, it will affect how much you enjoy the wine.

I know it’s wishful thinking to expect everyone to tell me their wine budget, so I’ve changed my approach over the years.

In a retail setting, I’ll ask you straight up—just to save time. There are far more bottles to sort through at a store than there are on most wine lists. It streamlines the recommendation process and gets you on your way.

Somming in a restaurant is different. I’ll attempt to protect your ego. First, I’ll ask about the style of wine you're looking for. Once you and your guests are in agreement, I’ll begin recommending bottles—starting at a higher price point and working my way down until we hit the sweet spot.

Now, if you decide to leave it all up to me—meaning you say “surprise us”—you’ll have to give me your price point, or at least your ceiling. And don’t you dare say “somewhere in the middle.” I’ve worked with lists ranging from $100 to $15,000 a bottle—so technically, the middle is $7,500. And yes, I’ll gladly sell anyone a $7,500 bottle of wine.

So what dictates wine prices?

A lot of it comes down to supply and demand. Lesser-known production areas often have lower land and labor costs, so they can produce less expensive wines. Then there are places like Napa Valley, where—rumor has it—an acre of land can cost a million dollars. Do the math—how much would you have to charge for a bottle from that acre based on projected yields?

Certain grapes also cost more to produce. Pinot Noir, for example, is a complicated grape and needs specific conditions. Add that to the prestige of regions like Burgundy—along with their low yields and high demand—and prices rise every year.

Then there’s the difference between retail and restaurant pricing. The gap comes down to overhead. A wine shop deals with fewer expenses—maybe rent, insurance, and 2–3 staff, depending on its size.

Restaurants, on the other hand, have to consider a much larger staff, glassware, decanters, a sommelier or buyer to curate the list, training, storage, waste, and the overall guest experience. That’s also why you’ll see corkage fees if you bring your own bottle—they’re still providing the glassware, service, and recouping some of that lost revenue.

At the end of the day, wine is meant to be enjoyed—no matter the price point! It should be as easy to order the house red as it is to order the well bourbon without scrutiny. It’s time for everyone to stop being apologetic about the wine they enjoy, and that includes how much they spend.

Cheers! 

Vocabulary:

Somm: Sommelier

Somming: performing the actions of a Sommelier during dinner service