Why I am pro sulfites…(an opinion)
This is more a story about why I avoid the sulfite conversation than a defense of their use. What I will say is that I am pro–winemaker when it comes to using the tools available to craft quality wines that arrive at market in one piece. I don’t enjoy it when sulfites are used gratuitously. In those cases, wines often lose their character and their sense of place (terroir) — that unique fingerprint that makes them interesting. I want it to feel like I’m bringing a specific moment in a vineyard’s history into the present. That doesn’t happen with overly manipulated wines — like bulk wine — but that’s the point of bulk wine: to produce a consistent product that tastes the same regardless of vintage or origin.
This is where thoughtful production comes into play. But what does that mean? Thoughtful production is when a winemaker is actively engaged in the process from bud-break to harvest, through bottling and cellaring. Winemakers who are hands-on, touching each barrel and understanding what’s happening at every stage, can make small adjustments that avoid the need for large doses of sulfur.
What I understand is sulfur being added at bottling. Think about it — a winemaker has just spent an entire season capturing a unique moment in a specific place, and now that wine will be subjected to unpredictable travel conditions. Using a small amount of sulfur to ensure the wine tastes as intended when it reaches the market is smart. Some producers even skip it in years when conditions are perfect and unnecessary. I don’t agree with condemning a vintage or producer simply because they do what they feel is best for their wines.
I have researched sulfites extensively and have yet to find anything that definitively proves they are the villain in my glass. I’ve touched on this before in videos and other posts.
Now — here’s why I avoid the sulfite conversation when working as a sommelier or selling wine at the shop.
Story time.
At a previous job, I had the pleasure of serving a table of regular guests who occasionally attended the monthly tastings I hosted. We were on friendly terms, so I was comfortable chatting as we selected their bottle. During service, one of them commented that U.S. wines always gave them headaches. They turned to me and said, “It must be the sulfites, right?”
They opened the door, and I walked right through. I launched into my usual defense of U.S. wines:
“There isn’t any definitive evidence that sulfites cause headaches. If someone does have an allergy, it would manifest differently.”
I also mentioned that many processed foods contain far more sulfites than wine ever will. Then I added:
“It could also be the alcohol. U.S. wines often have higher levels, and because wine is such a casual drink, it’s easy to enjoy a bottle without realizing it.”
They didn’t appreciate my implication that they might drink an entire bottle on their own. I tried to clarify:
“I only mean that it’s easy to finish a bottle over several hours — enough time to never feel intoxicated, but enough to dehydrate you and cause a hangover.”
Still unsatisfied, they insisted, “I would never drink a bottle alone and overconsume.” The funny thing? They almost always did when I served them. Some people prefer to live in their delusion.
I finished the service without further discussion and avoided the table for the rest of the night. No one else seemed to notice or care, so overall the evening went fine. But that interaction has deterred me from discussing headaches and sulfites in the years since. Now, if anyone raises the topic, I simply say, “Headaches can come from many factors when drinking,” and leave it at that.
As I’ve said before, I just want people to enjoy wine. It’s such a fun universe to explore. So if avoiding sulfites makes someone feel better, I’ll do my best to find a wine that suits them. We can just agree to disagree as we drink something from Milan Nestarec!