Why is U.S. Wine Bad?
It’s not…
And that’s where I could leave it, but I suppose I will expand.
There are a few factors that I believe cause this prevailing sentiment. Bulk wine madness dominates, with myriad similar-looking labels designed to taste the same on grocery store shelves. The demonization of alcohol. Fear of additives, chemicals, and dishonest winemaking. Add that to the world of wine law and the mind-boggling amount there is to learn about wine, and you have a recipe for a misunderstood wine industry.
The United States' wine law does not have the rigid complexities of Europe. At the macro level, states have established basic labeling laws that require a minimum percentage of the stated grape, state, or region to make up the bulk of the wine. For instance, California requires only 75% of the stated grape variety to make up the wine. Sub-regions can designate stricter regulations, but for the most part, they tend to be very basic. These looser regulations allow for much more experimentation, which is great as we learn what works best where, but it does make it difficult for consumers to dial in their preferences. If you think about a region like Chianti, whenever you see that on a label, regardless of producer, the style is iconic. Sure, there will be subtle differences between producers, but the style remains a light, rustic, red-fruited wine. Now go to the Russian River Valley—well, what grape is it? Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Zinfandel, or something only a couple producers are trying? Great—now what’s the style? Are there winemaking differences? See, there is just more a consumer has to worry about to try and find a wine they will enjoy.
So let’s say you’ve learned some of this. Just some basic wine law, typical grapes and styles from a few regions in California. You even have dialed in on some producers you enjoy and trust. Let’s say one of those producers gets really popular and then gets bought by one of the big wine companies. Now we have to go back into research mode. Are they a reputable company, are they going to change production methods? What are their production methods? Unfortunately, larger companies often seek to capitalize on that success, shifting production toward bulk wine made for mass appeal. Worried about additives and chemical use in the vineyards, you go back on the hunt for a new wine. And rather than try to navigate everything in California, you pivot to Europe, cause you’ve heard the winemaking is cleaner, more authentic, and natural. And who has time to navigate through all the marketing of the U.S.?
It often comes down to trust. And I don’t think that the wine industry as a whole in the U.S. has been able to cultivate a basic level of trust for the consumers. Instead, everyone views each other as competition and avoids working together for fear of losing market share. I’ll be clear, though, when I say ‘everyone’, I am referring to large brands and big companies, specifically suppliers and distributors. They have the loudest voice and could get the industry moving in a better direction quickly. Instead, the movement is slow and disjointed because anyone trying to move the industry in a positive direction is a small voice. Small winemakers, who make only a few thousand cases, will only bend the ear of those who have the joy of tasting their limited production. Sommeliers often carry an air of arrogance, discouraging many people from engaging for fear of ridicule.
Top it all off with recent articles demonizing alcohol, which has sparked health concerns across the board. To be clear, alcohol is not good for you. I fall into the camp of enjoying it in moderation, because I believe alcoholic beverages hold cultural and social significance. But it’s tough to preach about the significance when another article comes out about herbicide contamination in California wine. The title alone could scare anyone away from California wine, but reading the article reveals the issue lies overwhelmingly with bulk wines, with no mention of smaller, quality-focused producers. Unfortunately, I haven’t seen much to defend these producers.
But there you have it, my take on why many people find it easier to grab a wine from Europe than anywhere else in the world. Hopefully, we can carry the enthusiasm of the “eat-local” movement into a “drink-local” movement. While Tennessee wine may not be on everyone’s list just yet, regions like California, Oregon, Washington, New York, Virginia, Michigan, and North Carolina are far closer than France.